Itinerary: Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Topes de Collantes, Nicho, Santa Clara
From Coastal Crabs to the Charm of Cienfuegos.
The coastal ride into Cienfuegos was pure magic. There was almost no traffic, just us, our bikes, and hundreds of crabs scurrying across the road. Dodging them became a funny little art form! As the sun began to dip, we stumbled upon a secluded beach, the perfect spot to pitch our tent just as a heavy downpour was about to begin.
The next day plunged us into a jungle odyssey. The recent rain had turned the path into a muddy, soupy mess, slowing us down to a laughable pace. But the nature surrounding us was just incredible! We honestly half-expected a dinosaur to pop out from behind a tree—it felt like a real-life Jurassic Park, especially knowing there was a chance of encountering crocodiles.
Finally, Cienfuegos greeted us. It was such a stark contrast to Havana, with its stunning architecture and a wonderfully relaxed vibe. Impeccably maintained buildings and tidy streets welcomed us, along with an array of restaurants and shops. Finding so much food and water again felt like a luxury! We couldn’t resist staying an extra day just to soak in the city’s charm.
Falling for Trinidad’s Colonial Charm.
Cycling from Cienfuegos to Trinidad was an adventure through the most enchanting landscapes. The ride was a mix of challenging hills, stunning views of the turquoise Caribbean, and lush green estuaries. With the majestic Escambray Mountains on one side and the sea on the other, the journey felt absolutely captivating. We covered the 80 kms by early evening, cherishing every moment of the scenic ride.
And then there was Trinidad. It completely stole our hearts with its well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture and cobblestone streets. The vibrant colors of the buildings and the lively atmosphere of Plaza Mayor just added to its magic.
Pushing Bikes and Limits to Reach El Nicho in Escambray mountains.
After a few days exploring, our journey led us towards the Topes de Collantes nature reserve. We knew we were in for a final, challenging climb to the village of El Nicho. We decided on an unconventional route through the Escambray mountains range, a path less traveled than the smoother road from Cienfuegos.
Despite the grueling ascents (with lots of cursing 😆) and the rough road, we pushed on. After a very early start to catch the morning breeze, we covered 40 kms and made it to Topes de Collantes by noon. We thought the final 20-km stretch to El Nicho would be a piece of cake. It turns out, that was just the beginning.
Facing a water shortage again, and knowing there would be no other sources on the way to El Nicho, we got lucky and found a small restaurant selling water bottles. With our newly acquired stash, we continued.
As we pushed on, the road conditions deteriorated fast. It quickly became clear that reaching El Nicho before sunset was impossible. We decided to set up camp near a spot called Saltico and tackle the remaining 15 kms the next day. We had no idea what was waiting for us. The road got worse, the hills became so steep we had to get off and push the bikes, and the sweltering heat made everything harder. We even contemplated turning back at one point, but we decided to persist.
Pushing our bikes through that terrain was brutal, but during every pause to catch our breath, we found a strange kind of serenity in the captivating tropical landscape. Scotty was having the time of his life, reveling in the freedom of running beside us. After hours of pushing through the lush green jungle, we finally reached El Nicho in the early afternoon, completely collapsing into chairs at a local bar. The locals were astonished by our journey, baffled when they heard where we had come from. “Eso no lo hace cualquiera,” (Not just anyone does that), they said.
One Last Adventure: The Swamp Before Santa Clara.
One last tough climb awaited us before we could finally descend through quiet villages filled with the aroma of coffee. Seeing farmers drying coffee beans by the roadside and the untouched nature all around us continued to paint a beautiful picture of the mountains.
We set off from the serene tranquility of Embalse Avilés feeling rejuvenated after a restful night. Our destination was Santa Clara, and we thought it would be an easy ride. Little did we know, the day had other plans.
As the morning unfolded, the roads seemed promising until we made one bad decision. Trusting our GPS blindly, we suddenly found ourselves in a serious predicament: we had to cross a river that led directly into an impassable swamp. We were stranded. With our phone batteries dying and our supplies dwindling, we had no choice but to turn back and find another way. We fought through thick mud and adversity, dealing with several flat tires along the way. Hours later, we were finally back on a proper track.
By nightfall, we finally arrived in Santa Clara. We paid our respects at the mausoleum of Che Guevara before heading to our casa particular, where we received a warm welcome and a feast fit for champions.
The Final Sprint: Racing Back to Havana.
Our journey wasn’t over yet. The next day, we began racing back to La Habana on the autopista nacional. We had to cover 280 kms in just two days to be on time for Scotty’s vet check before our flight ✈️. We found energy food at roadside paladares and even saw rice being dried along the highway. Exhausted but determined, we made it to La Habana—just in time to catch our plane to Mexico.
A Lump in Our Throats: The Mark Cuba Left on Us.
Our journey through Cuba left a profound mark on us. As experienced travelers, we initially grappled with adapting to the reality of the country, especially the constant challenge of finding food and water. Not being able to use our credit cards was also a significant hurdle at first. Of course, we know these inconveniences are nothing compared to the daily struggles Cubans face.
Even with the difficulties, Cuba’s beauty and way of life drew us in. At first, we had mixed feelings, weighed down by the harsh social reality we saw. But through conversations, listening to the different stories of the locals, we began to gain a deeper understanding. The more of the country we explored, the more our love for Cuba grew, almost without us realizing it.
It was only when we were on the plane to Mexico, looking down at Havana from above, that we both felt a lump in our throats. That’s when it hit us. Cuba had woven new, amazing friendships into our lives, unveiled stunning nature and wildlife, taught us to overcome unexpected challenges, and showed us the incredible resilience of its people. It left an indelible mark on us. Cuba transformed us in ways we never imagined, ensuring it will forever hold a special place in our hearts.
